Karen Fisher, People of Za'atari Camp
Bismillah al-Rahman al-Rahim (In the name of God, the most gracious, the most merciful) Insights "Sabah al-khair (good morning)," we tell each other over the tarab music and bustle as Abu Ali works the rakwa (coffee pot) atop the flame, expertly stirring my usual shwey (a little) sugar into the dark Turkish coffee. In seconds, my perfect little cup is ready to motor my day—superhot with heady foam and fragrant cardamom. Six sips, though, maybe eight, and I'm hitting the grainy sludge. Rules you remember: Carry the cup by the rim, never stir the coffee, and never drink…
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